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Find your glaze

Match a glaze to your firing, the color you want and the finish you like.

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In stock and best sellers first

How to choose a glaze

Four choices narrow hundreds of glazes to a short list. The finder above asks the same ones.

  1. Match your firing. Like clay, every glaze is made for a firing range. Low-fire glazes mature at cone 06–04, mid-range at cone 4–6 and high-fire at cone 8–10. Raku glazes are made for a raku firing. Fired too hot, a glaze can run. Fired too cool, it stays dry and rough.
  2. Glaze or underglaze? Glazes give a pot its surface. Underglazes are for painting color and designs, usually on greenware or bisque, and are often covered with a clear glaze.
  3. Color and finish. Pick gloss, satin, matte or textured, then a color family. The photo is a guide. Color shifts with your clay, how thick you apply the glaze, and your kiln. Floating, flux and reduction-look glazes change the most, especially when layered.
  4. How much? A pint is good for trying a color. Gallons suit colors you use often and classrooms. Some glazes also come dry, in 5 or 10 lb bags, to mix with water yourself.

The finder lists in-stock best sellers first. Not sure? Contact us.

Common questions

Why doesn’t my glaze look like the photo?

Your clay, how thick you apply the glaze, and your firing all change it. Make a test tile on your own clay before glazing a whole piece.

How many coats should I brush on?

For most brushing glazes, about three even coats. Check the label on the jar.

Can I layer glazes?

Yes. Many, like Amaco Potter’s Choice, are made for it. Layered glazes tend to run, so test first and keep thick layers away from the foot.

Do I need a clear glaze over underglaze?

Not always. Some underglazes, such as Amaco Velvet, can be fired on their own for a soft satin look. Add a clear glaze when you want shine.